1/10 scale Touring cars: nitro tourers may use .12 or .15 powerplants, and can be very fast indeed—up to 55mph. Feature 4WD and realistic body lines. For on-road use only.
They run on nitromethane-based fuel, have two primary advantages: higher speed and longer run time. It's easy to make a "pit stop" for more fuel with a nitro-powered car, and keep driving with only a moment's interuption. But remember, the on-board battery that powers the vital radio gear will eventually need a recharge, so don't go too long without stopping! Nitro cars are generally faster than similar electrics, and the realism of authentic engine sound and exhaust smoke add a gee-whiz factor that electrics can't match.
They run on nitromethane-based fuel, have two primary advantages: higher speed and longer run time. It's easy to make a "pit stop" for more fuel with a nitro-powered car, and keep driving with only a moment's interuption. But remember, the on-board battery that powers the vital radio gear will eventually need a recharge, so don't go too long without stopping! Nitro cars are generally faster than similar electrics, and the realism of authentic engine sound and exhaust smoke add a gee-whiz factor that electrics can't match.
ENGINE POWERED MODELS
commonly called "nitro" kits,
GETTING STARTED WITH ENGINE-POWERED MODELS
Nitro-powered models also require a radio system and basic tools for assembly, and have some additional specific needs of their own. Remember to ask about the following when you're in the hobby shop!
RECEIVER BATTERY:
Unlike electric-powered models, which use the on-board battery that powers the motor to also power the receiver and servos, a nitro-powered model requires a separate battery to power the on-board radio gear. Most radio systems include a holder for 4 "AA" batteries to do the job, but replacing batteries can get expensive. Most modelers use a rechargeable receiver battery instead, which requires a charger. Although more expensive up front, a rechargeable receiver pack and charger will save you money in the long run (even not-so-long run).
GLOW-PLUG IGNITER
This heats the engine's glow plug (the equivalent of a spark plug is a full-scale car) so that the fuel in the combustion chamber can ignite and cause the engine to run. Once running, the heat of combustion keeps the glow plug hot, and the glow-plug igniter is removed.
ELECTRIC STARTER
Most entry-level and "play" kits include pull-starters (just like a lawn mower), and do not require an electric starter. But for those that don't have a pull-starter, you'll need either a hand-held, 12V starter or an electric starter box. Both types of starter have spinning, rubber wheels that, when placed against the engine's flywheel, cause the engine's crankshaft to rotate and fire the engine into life.
NITRO FUEL
Although often referred to as "gas powered", nitro models DO NOT run on gasoline. RC fuel is a mixture of nitromethane and synthetic or castor oil lubricants. It is flammable and should be treated with care, but it is not nearly as volatile as gasoline. Never attempt to use gasoline in a nitro engine!
FUEL BOTTLE
This is simply a small, squeezable bottle with a long neck that makes it easier to fill your models gas tank. Pouring fuel into a tiny tank opening from a full gallon jug of fuel invariably leads to mess and waste!
